So we finally got around to visiting Mathias Dahlgren at Grand Hôtel here in Stockholm. I’ve tried a few times to get a table at Matsalen, with two stars, set menues and a more formal setting, but we went for Matbaren, a more laid back but still awesome place. The top 50 web describes it as a twin restaurant concept. Nevertheless, if you’re in Stockholm – go there, it’s a must!
At Matbaren they offer a variety, all seasonal of course, of medium sized dishes. They’re larger than an appetizer but smaller than an regular entree. Basically divided into regional (Swedish) and globally inspired they also have vegetarian and a part with pastries and one with dairy products and cold cuts. The beverage section is very well matched and we got a lot of competent advise in our choices. Here’s what we had:
I started with a glass of cava, Agusti Torello Barrica -06, that went well with Artichoke & leek, served with watercress, truffles, onion rings and aged cheese. As a guy that use the quote “never trust a vegetarian” a lot, I was pleasantly surprised by this choice from the greens section. Lisa had Sashimi of salma salmon & reindeer, served with avocado, ginger and horseradish and complemented with a glass of Jacobus -09 a Riesling Trocken from Peter Jakob Kühn, Rheingau.
For the second dish we both found one we had to try – Swedish squid & shrimp in a spicy broth served with raw vegetables, lime, coriander and chili. We thought “Swedish squid, what the hell is that?” but it turned out to be just that, squid off the west coast of Sweden, and damn was that good! The squid itself was cold and perfect in texture and the broth incredibly well balanced for being a fresh and spicy one. Instead of wine we were recommended Ginger Beer from Williams Bros Brewing that simply rocked.
Now Lisa had to try the Artichoke & leeks that I’d had and I went for Seared flanksteak from Nebraska served with beetroot, horseradish ox marrow and watercress. The meat was full of flavor, perhaps it was just a tad tough, but all in all a great plate. To this I didn’t want the Californian wine recommended and chose Arlay Rouge -05 from Château d’Arlay, Jura, which turned out to be a great combination.
As Lisa saved herself for the desserts I had to try another savory dish – a Salad of salted cod served with fennel, capers, lemon and olive oil. This was my favorite course of them all, a bit like gravlax but with cod and no sugar. Simply clean and well matched flavors. The wine came from outside their list but sharing the cellar with Grand Hôtel has its perks I guess; Huber -09, Grüner Veltliner, Traisental D.A.C.
Now – desserts. I had Baked wild chocolade from Bolivia served with sour cream, toffée ice cream and nuts. Almost like a chocolate fondant and a really nice dessert plate for a guy not that crazy about sweets. Lisa had an even better dessert: Bitter lemon cream served with meringue, honey, olive oil and vanilla. Next time I’m having that one! To this we had Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia -09 from La Spinetta, Piemonte and Vin doux Naturel Vendange -08 from Domaine Pouderoux, Maury.
We finished off with some espressos, curiously enough from Nespresso, and an avec. Lisa got Cidre De Glace, Ice Cider -06, from Domaine Leduc-Piedimonte in Canada. This ice cider is made in the same fashion as eiswein and are only made in like one or two places in the world. I got Grappa Sauvignon Blanc, Nonino -04.
The evening was in short amazing and I’ll be back soon. With a couple of dishes and a glass or two it doesn’t have to cost you more than the average restaurant. Thank you Mathias and crew.